Sheep

I recently read a stat that 90% of tourists visit only 5% of the planets land mass, or something similar. Basically people are drawn to the same places. It got me thinking about cycling destinations and what makes them popular. When you ask people about their cycling bucket list, the usual suspects normally come up. The big climbs made infamous by the big races. So basically, that narrows it down to the big three countries - Spain, Italy and of course France. 

Over the past 15 years, I have been lucky enough to give most of the famous climbs and areas a go, you have the Stelvio, Mortirolo and Gavia in Italy. The Tourmalet, Ventoux and Alpe d'Huez in France whereas in Spain, the climbs are lesser known and it is more about the regions; Mallorca, Girona and Calpe. 

Ask the average person on the street to name a cycling climb then there will be an outright winner, Alpe d'Huez. Thousands lycra cladded maniacs make this pilgrimage to Bourg d'Osians to attempt "the Alpe". 21 bends taking you up 1143m over a distance of 14.5km. The gradient is most rude at the beginning and averages out to 7.9%. It is a legit climb and challenging however, in my humble opinion, it is not worth the effort. It is essentially a main road to a ski resort. There are constantly cars and buses making their daily commute and getting in the way. The views are reasonable but it is not a challenge to find better ones. The most infuriating (but also rather amusing) problem is that a few bars and shops have created a little finish area as you come into town. People stop, celebrate, take a selfie and then whilst sipping on their coffee ask themselves where a lot of cyclists are continuing. A glance at a Garmin and they realise that there are still a couple of bends to go. Oh shit! A quick remount and through town, you arrive at the official finish, which is at a rather underwelming entrance to an underground carpark. 

You would think that one of the most famous climbs in cycling would have a more welcoming arrival!

Mont Ventoux on the other hand is one of the big ones that is well worth a trip. There is something very satisfying about finishing at the top of a mountain. There are 3 ways up the windy mountain and if you are going to do just one, set off from Bedoin. Starting in the forest, there are some challenging ramps taking you through the dappled sunlight. You wonder whether it will ever finish. It begins to open up at Chalet Reynard and then you get what you came for..... the infamous exposed lunar landscape leading to the radio tower which looks like a rocket ready to take off. You can tip your cap or leave a bottle as you pass the Tom Simpson memorial and then you have the last push to the iconic finish. There you are greeted with a never ending vista and more often than not, a slight breeze.

Ticking off some of the big Italian climbs is pretty easy, a trip to the mountain town of Bormio. Here you have access to the mighty Stelvio. This is a long beast and parts of it are stunning. However, it is a bit of a victim of its own popularity and can get very busy with motorbikes, sports cars, caravans, lorries and generally people who will irritate. The Gavia on the otherhand, which is also accesible from your Bormio base is much quieter, wilder and satisfying. You can also get a rather nice hot chocolate at the refuge at the top of the pass. I did it in very cold conditions and this made the descent rather spicy, especially when you have to go over the cobbles in Santa Caterina. 

As opposed to its bigger and better known neighbour, the Gavia is more interesting than the Stelvio

I do feel that, as satisfying as it is to tick of the big cols along with their associated bragging rights, the experience of finding lesser known, wilder routes provides me with more adventure and accomplishment. The Spanish climbs of the Vuelta are less well known by name but one that I had my eye on was the Angliru. When I happened to be in Asturias on the Atlantic Coast, the lure of going inland to find this beast was too much. With stats around 10km and an average gradient of 11%, I knew it would be tough but something I could have a crack at... just get in a slow rhythm I thought. My suspicions were raised when,  after 4km , the gradient had never passed 4%; my brain was spinning with mental athrithmatic trying to work out how much sting there would be in the tail. Then, to my horror, I started to descend for what felt like a kilometre. This meant that the last 6 km, according to my maths, would be off the scale. 

Hidden away and difficult to get to, the Angliru is the most difficult climb that I have ever done

I was right! Brutal, ramps for km after km of 16 to 25%. I was crawling up the side of this mountain, it was deserted, no one there. Front wheels constantly coming off the ground. No need to worry about gear changing, I was in the biggest cog. It was an amazing feeling to get to the top. I think it was all the sweeter for how deserted it was.

I guess what I am getting at is, it is not necassarily the most well known climbs and destinations that are the most satisfying. There is so much out there to do, if only we had the time.